Cilantro and the experience of taste

Ever notice a strong divide among cilantro lovers and haters? Sure, all foods are enjoyed by some and loathed by others, but when it comes to cilantro, the divide seems to be more pronounced. There may be a scientific explanation for this. Research suggests that people can experience taste drastically differently depending on their taste buds. Those in the cilantro-hating camp report that, to them, cilantro tastes something like lemony, soapy dishwater, and they avoid the herb at all costs.

Reporter Josh Kurz, a cilantro hater, sought to get to the bottom of the issue using a Gas Chromatograph, a machine that slowly heats up whatever is placed inside it, in this case, cilantro. Different chemical compounds in the cilantro evaporate at different temperatures, and with the machine, Kurz was able to identify just what it is about cilantro that he – and millions of others around the globe – finds so noxious.

Kurz took part in the experiment along with a couple cilantro lovers. When unsaturated aldahydes were evaporated, Kurz identified them as the root of his cilantro hatred; the cilantro lovers, however, smelled nothing. Shortly thereafter, the two cilantro lovers identified the unique aroma that draws them to the herb, and Kurz – you guessed it – smelled nothing.

Supertasters

In the cilantro example above, Kurz displayed the traits of what he refers to as a supersmeller. Related to this is a group of people known as supertasters. These are people who perceive the taste of a certain chemical compound, phenylthiocarbamide (PCT) as very bitter, while the rest of us perceive it as tasteless. Supertasters also have significantly more taste buds than the non-PCT sensitive (“non-taster”) tongue.

While PCT itself is not found in food, related chemicals are, and it is hypothesized that PCT sensitivity plays a role in determining food choices. PCT tasters tend not to like broccoli, cauliflower, spinach, Brussels sprouts and other vegetables with PCT-like compounds, and may thus consume fewer servings of vegetables and more sweets and fats than non-tasters. Their overall high acuity for taste may cause them to eat less of a variety of foods. Overall, supertasters have been shown to have a marginally higher risk of diabetes and heart attack than non-tasters. On the bright side, being a supertaster appears to be protective against cigarette smoking, as supertasters are more sensitive to the negative taste of cigarettes. Genetic differences among people in the perception of sweet flavors have also been found.

An excuse for picky eaters?

Being a supersmeller or supertaster may explain why some people are picky eaters and some are not. So, picky eaters, rejoice. Next time someone gives you a hard time about your selective food choices, explain to them that you might simply perceive the taste of food differently than others, and may be more sensitive to taste than most people. If you think you might be a supertaster (or just plain don’t like many vegetables), try to find a variety of vegetables that you do enjoy, and try to increase your vegetable consumption. For the rest of us, keep your dinner guests in mind when choosing to serve a dish that contains cilantro. You don’t want to offend any supersmellers by serving them a dish that tastes like lemony, soapy dishwater.

Readers, what do you think? What are your own experiences with cilantro, or the perception of taste in general?

The ubiquity of corn

This week’s blog post focuses on nutrition and the foods you choose to cook with. These days, corn and corn byproducts can be found in a staggering number of products sold in the grocery store. From high fructose corn syrup used to sweeten sodas and other beverages to corn-fed beef and chicken, corn has become ubiquitous in the food industry. This is thanks in part to the cheap cost of corn due to government subsidies provided to farmers who grow the crop. Because of the subsidies, consumer prices of corn and corn byproducts are more than a quarter below the actual cost of production, making it cheaper to use high fructose corn syrup as a sweetener than other natural sweeteners, and to use corn and other grains for livestock feed.

Health effects

The digestion and absorption of fructose, used in high fructose corn syrup, is physiologically different from that of glucose (a natural sweetener): unlike glucose, fructose does not trigger the release of insulin, increase leptin production, or suppress ghrelin production. What?? Basically, these processes all regulate how much you eat by telling your brain that you’re full. So, when they don’t happen, you eat more. Also, fructose is digested directly in the liver, where it’s turned into fat and enters the blood stream in the form of triglycerides (FAT!), which can lead to insulin resistance, which can lead to diabetes. The introduction and increased use of high fructose corn syrup in the food industry since the early 1980s has closely mirrored the obesity epidemic that our nation has witnessed in the past few decades. High fructose corn syrup has also been linked with vitamin and mineral deficiency: people who consume high amounts of added sugar have below-average levels of a number of essential nutrients, and soft drinks containing high fructose corn syrup are largely replacing milk in American homes, resulting in calcium deficiency.

The health effects of eating grain-fed beef, chicken, and fish (yes, fish) are also surprising. A diet of corn and soy rather than their natural diet of grass drastically alters the fat content of beef, significantly increasing overall fat content, saturated fat content, and lowering polyunsaturated fat content (a good fat!). Omega-3 fats, which have been shown to raise your metabolism, are 40% lower in grain-fed beef than grass-fed beef. Grass-fed beef also contains more beta-carotene, which, when converted to Vitamin A in the body, is essential for normal vision, bone growth, reproduction, cell division, skin health, and immune function. Similar effects have been found when comparing grain-fed chickens and fish with those who were fed what they naturally eat.

What can I do?

Many people are hesitant to drink diet sodas and other beverages due to speculation surrounding the long-term health effects of artificial sweeteners. Our suggestion is to stop drinking soda and other soft drinks – diet or regular – altogether. Yep, we said it. Stop drinking soda. Instead, drink healthier options such as water, 100% pure fruit juice, or home-brewed iced tea. Fruit juice can be diluted with water to reduce sugar intake and to stretch it out a little so it lasts longer, or you can top it off with some seltzer water for a soda-like effect. Brewing your own iced tea is not only healthier and cheaper than drinking artificially sweetened store-bought iced tea, but allows you to choose which flavor of tea you want to brew and to sweeten it with a natural sweetener, if you choose. Why not experiment with something new?!

Meats such as chicken and beef are a daily feature on many of our dinner tables and provide necessary nutrients such as protein and iron. There are ways to continue eating meat while avoiding grain-fed meat. Grass-fed beef is becoming increasingly available to consumers, especially in health food stores such as Whole Foods or your local farm. Check out a website such as http://www.farmfresh.org to help you find a local farm. When buying eggs, seek out omega-3 eggs. These have a much healthier omega-3 to omega-6 ratio than those produced by grain-fed hens. Another alternative is to substitute vegetarian protein options such as tofu or beans for some of your meals.

In today’s economy it’s often difficult to afford healthier foods, and corn subsidies have allowed the food industry to offer foods containing corn products at a cheap price and in large portions. Ask your congressperson to support a drastic reduction of corn subsidies and to support incentive programs for farmers to switch to healthier crops such as fruit and vegetables, which currently receive only one-tenth of one percent of crop subsidies. In the meantime, recognize that your health is one of the most important things you’ve got and choose to promote it by spending a little more on healthier foods.

Sources

Bray, G., Neilsen, S., and Popkin, B. "Consumption of high-fructose corn syrup in beverages may play a role in the epidemic of obesity," American Journal of Clinical Nutrition 79 (2004): 537.
Daley, C., Abbott, A., Doyle, P., Nader, G., and Larson, S. "A literature review of the value-added nutrients found in grass-fed beef products," http://www.csuchico.edu/agr/grassfedbeef/health-benefits/ 28 (2005).
Daley, C., Harrison, K., Doyle, P., Abbott, A., Nader, G., and Larson, S. "Effect of Ration on Lipid Profiles in Beef," California State University, College of Agriculture, University of California Cooperative Extension Service, 2006. http://www.csuchico.edu/agr/grassfedbeef/health-benefits/index.html.
Fields, S. "The fat of the land: Do agricultural subsidies foster poor health?," Environmental Health Perspectives 112 (2004): A820.
Friedlander, J., Bauman, E., and Ed, M. "How America’s Corn-ucopia Is Making Us Fat," Holistic Nutrition and Culinary Arts (2007): 1-5.
Pollan, M. "The (Agri) Cultural Contradictions Of Obesity," The New York Times, October 23, 2003.

The Science of Cooking: Part 1

If you’re just getting started in the kitchen – or even if you’ve been cooking for years or even decades – an understanding of the science behind cooking can make your adventures in the kitchen more interesting and can be very useful when creating your own culinary masterpieces. This is part 1 of a 3-part series on the science of cooking. The next two parts will appear over the next few weeks in our blog and will each investigate the science behind four culinary phenomena. This week we look at the browning of apples after they've been cut, emulsion, why onions make us cry, and the effects of adding salt when boiling water, and also offer some tips to enhance your experience in the kitchen.

Why do apples turn brown after they’ve been cut?

Apples and other produce items including bananas, potatoes, and avocadoes contain an enzyme that causes them to oxidize when exposed to air. This oxidation results in the exposed fruit turning brown, similar to the rusting of iron. Although the browned fruit is totally fine to ingest, it is not very appetizing! There are a number of ways to inactivate this enzyme, thereby preventing the unsightly color change. These include cooking the fruit, lowering the pH of the exposed fruit’s surface with lemon juice or another acid, reducing the fruit’s exposure to oxygen by vacuum sealing it or keeping it under water, or by using certain preservatives such as sulfur dioxide.

Eggs yolks as emulsifier

Anyone who has been to fifth grade knows that oil and water don’t mix. But what about recipes that call for both ingredients? Interestingly, egg yolks act as an emulsifier, or a substance that allows unblendable (or “immiscible”) liquids to stay mixed. Egg yolks contain proteins that have amino acids that attract water and amino acids that repel water, and also contain a protein known as lecithin, a fat emulsifier. Lecithin prevents tiny oil droplets from bonding with one another, preventing the oil from separating from the water. This is why eggs are an important ingredient in many recipes, including hollandaise and mayonnaise. Honey, gelatin, and mustard are also examples of emulsifiers, and soy lecithin is often used as a food additive in such items as candy bars and baked goods to aid in emulsion.

Why do onions make me cry?

Cutting an onion releases enzymes contained within the cells of the onion, which then react with sulfenic acids that form when the onion is cut, resulting in a volatile sulfur compound. This compound reacts with water from your tears to form sulfuric acid, which burns your eyes (and triggers the release of more tears). It’s possible to inactivate the enzyme by cooking the onion. You can also decrease discomfort by cutting onions underwater, chewing gum or bread while cutting the onion, refrigerating the onion prior to use (this slows the reaction), or by not cutting the root off, as the enzyme is most concentrated in the root. Using a sharp knife will also reduce the amount of the sulfur compound that is released.

Boiling water with salt

Adding salt to water before you boil it increases the temperature at which it boils. This allows food to cook at a higher temperature than 212°F, thereby decreasing the overall cooking time. Of course, the amount of salt you add will affect how drastic the change in cooking time is, and many scientists argue that the effect of adding salt to water before boiling it is negligible and that salt should be used solely as a flavor enhancer. Because adding salt increases the amount of time it takes for water to start boiling, the overall time required for your meal may be unchanged.